Kinosaki Onsen: The Curated Guide To Japan’s Tattoo-Friendly Hot Springs Town

Most first-time visitors to Japan build their itineraries around Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka, with maybe an added stop to Hiroshima or Himeji to check off the famous castle. While you’re checking off the famous spots, you end up missing out on places that truly make Japan special.

The Kansai region (where Kyoto and Osaka is located) has so much more to offer and most travelers overlook the less crowded, more charming towns that are just as easy to access and offer a deeper experience of traditional Japan.

Gems like Amanohashidate, Ine, and Kinosaki.

On my recent Artisan Series project, visiting smaller communities across the Kansai region to learn about crafts from artisans who still practice the traditional way, I took advantage of my Kansai Wide Area Pass (better value than JR Pass) to finally visit Kinosaki Onsen, just a 2.5 hour direct train from Kyoto.

After three nonstop weeks on a family trip in Thailand, I needed the reset and the baths of Kinosaki had been sitting on my onsen shortlist for a while.

Quick Jump

1. Tattoo Policy
2. What Makes Kinosaki Special
3. Town Layout and Map
4. The 7 Bathhouses
5. Where To Stay In Kinosaki
6. Yukata Culture
7. Things To Do In Kinosaki
8. Local Specialities To Eat and Buy In Kinosaki
9. Getting To Kinosaki

A Tattoo-Friendly Onsen Town

Known for its seven famous public bathhouses, Kinosaki is one of the few onsen towns in Japan that is openly tattoo-friendly.

Unlike many traditional hot springs where tattoos are banned or require cover-ups, all seven public bathhouses in Kinosaki allow guests with tattoos.

In some ways, it’s a slowly shifting attitude in Japan toward body art and international visitors, where tattoos do not have a deep association with the yakuza culture.

Note: While the public bathhouses allow tattoos, individual ryokans may still have their no-tattoo policy, so check beforehand.

For those who are still shy to bathe naked with others, some ryokans offer private bathing options. Some even offer their make private baths available to non-guests.

What Makes Kinosaki Onsen Special

Kinosaki reminded me of my visit to Shibu Onsen, one of my favorite onsen towns in Japan with its nine historic bathhouses and narrow alleyways. While slightly bigger and more crowded, Kinosaki had that same vibe, but with an even more picturesque town.

The town stands out among Japan’s many other onsen destinations because it has preserved its charm without becoming overly commercial or modernized. The town still feels like a living part of history, with wooden ryokans, stone bridges, and willow-lined canals.

Unlike popular onsen towns like Arima, Hakone, or Jozankei, there are no large concrete resorts or intrusive signage.

While those towns have become more urbanized and cater to a higher volume of day-trippers, Kinosaki still maintains the quiet and tranquil feeling of a traditional hot spring town.

It is still small enough to explore entirely on foot and yet with enough things to do in the town and nearby to justify a least a 1-2 night stay.

The main straight stretch of road from the train station to the town is lined with shops and stalls selling fresh snow crab legs, handmade goods, and traditional kitchenware. It felt like wandering into a preserved Edo-era post town.

A Town Designed As A Ryokan

Kinosaki onsen was designed to feel like one big ryokan. The different guesthouses are its rooms. The streets are its hallways.  The sevens hot springs bathhouses are its evenly spaced out communal baths. Guests are encouraged to wear their yukatas while walking around the town, which is a delightful experience for both locals and visitors alike.

A river cuts gently through the middle of town, and a series of arched bridges connect both sides the mountains and ropeway in the distance.

I can see the touristy aspect of the town. There were souvenir shops and plenty of visitors, but somehow it never felt crowded or too commercial. Kinosaki seems to honor its history in this way and maintains a slower rhythm of life here.

The Seven Bathhouses of Kinosaki

One of the main reasons to visit Kinosaki is for its collection of seven public bathhouses. Guests staying at local ryokans receive a free pass that gives unlimited access to these baths from check-in until 1 pm the next day.

All Access Public Bathhouse Pass

Even if you’re just staying one night, you can visit a few the day you check-in, and then enjoy a couple of quiet morning baths, even after your check-out.

If you’re not staying in town, or your accommodation does not provide the pass, you can buy an all-access pass to visit any of the public bathhouse for just ¥1500. Considering the price of entry for one bathhouse is ¥800, the pass is the way to go.

Each bathhouse has its own unique design, atmosphere, and bathing experience. Some are indoors while others have both indoor and outdoor (rotenburo) baths.

They also have their own set of stamps, which you can collect in a commemorative booklet. These are available for purchase for ¥50 from your ryokan, one of the bathhouses, or at some of the shops in town.

Hot Springs Water Temperature In Kinosaki

Officially, the hot springs temperature in Kinosaki is listed at 42°C or around 107°F. While this might seem feels hot compared to a typical jacuzzi temperature of 102-104°F, it feels quite nice once you’ve slowly adapted. It’s even better if you’re visiting during the winter months.

Some of the public baths and onsen in ryokans have different temperature baths that are slightly lower too.

Goshono-yu

One of the larger and most elegant bathhouse made from cypress wood and floor to ceiling glass walls. It was designed to resemble a Heian-period imperial palace. There’s a spacious indoor bath that connects to an open-air bath with a waterfall as a backdrop.

This is probably my overall favorite bathhouse in Kinosaki. While it was crowded in the afternoon, the outdoor bath was large enough to accommodate and you have different areas you can move around to.

Open: 7 am – 11 pm. Closed: Thursdays. Entry: ¥800 Adults / ¥400 Children Under 12

Kouno-yu

The oldest bathhouse in Kinosaki with both a small indoor bath and a larger outdoor one. The outdoor bath was very peaceful in the morning with the surrounding snow-covered trees.

I’m glad I was able to enjoy this place without crowd on a crisp winter morning. When the only other person left and I was alone, snow started falling. It was my most memorable bath during my visit to Kinosaki.

I also picked up a post-bath bottle of milk and enjoyed it on one of their recliners. It may seem odd to point this out, but it’s one of those things that just feels right when you’re trying to experience the onsen culture like a local.

Open: 7 am – 11 pm. Closed: Tuesdays. Entry: ¥800 Adults / ¥400 Children Under 12

Ichino-yu

The most central bathhouse designed with a kabuki theater facade. There’s a large indoor bath, but the highlight is the outdoor bath built into cave of natural boulders. This was the most atmospheric and stunning bath, but also the most crowded. It’s still a top 3.

Tip: If you can, I’d visit this one first thing in the morning to enjoy the cave when it’s not so busy.

Open: 7 am – 11 pm. Closed: Wednesdays. Entry: ¥800 Adults / ¥400 Children Under 12

Yanagi-yu

A small, intimate bath made from cypress wood and favored by locals. It is known for its fertility inducing waters and gets its name from the willow trees outside.

I found this one to be simple but charming and authentic, like some of the more local onsen I’ve visited around Japan. It’s worth doing with the pass, but you can skip it if you don’t have time or doing a day trip.

Open: 3 pm – 11 pm. Closed: Thursdays. Entry: ¥800 Adults / ¥400 Children Under 12

Jizou-yu

A classic indoor bath that’s well-liked by locals for its hot waters. There’s also a small pool just for children. They also offer private family baths in addition to the main baths.

This one was alright. Worth visiting with the pass, but you can probably skip it if you’re doing a day trip or don’t have enough time.

Open: 3 pm – 11 pm. Closed: Mondays. Entry: ¥800 Adults / ¥400 Children Under 12

Mandara-yu

A small and peaceful bathhouse tucked away at the end of the town. There are two ceramic tubs outdoors where you can enjoy a view of the surrounding mountains. It’s a bit further away and is supposed to have one of the more quiet atmosphere.

I didn’t get to visit this since it was closed the morning I was planning to visit.

Open: 3 pm – 11 pm. Closed: Wednesdays. Entry: ¥800 Adults / ¥400 Children Under 12

Satono-yu

The first bathhouse you’ll find in town, right next to the train station. This is the largest of the seven and has both an indoor Turkish bath and Japanese bath. Outside on the upper floor, there’s a bath with a waterfall and panoramic view of the town.

I didn’t visit this one since it was closed at the time. There’s a footpath outside, so you can use this for one last soak while waiting for your train.

Update: The Satono-Yu is closed indefinitely for renovations.

Visiting all seven is would be a great accomplishment and an experience in and of itself. I recommend using the times above to plan out your route in advance, since each bath has different hours and days where they are closed. I managed to visit 5 out of 7 baths.

Basic Onsen Etiquettes For Bathing In Japan

If it’s your first time bathing in a hot spring in Japan, you should learn and observe these basic rules and etiquettes.

1. Clean yourself or rinse before entering. There’s always an area where you can shower or wash up before entering a communal bath. If not, you’re meant to use a small bucket to rinse yourself with the hot spring water before entering.
2. No clothes or bathing suit. It’s normal and expected to bath completely nude, even in a communal pool. Men and women usually have their own separate bathing area. There are some onsen that have traditional mixed-gender bathing. Do not wear a bathing suit or a towel when bathing.
3. No visible tattoos. Most onsen and bathhouses prohibit tattoos. Luckily, all the public bathhouses in Kinosaki Onsen are tattoo-friendly.
4. Do not submerge your towel. Most bathers bring in a small hand towel for wiping off sweat and drying off before returning to the changing area. You’re are not submerge your towel in the water. Most people will keep it on their shoulders or on top of their heads.
5. Do not submerge your head underwater. For hygienic reasons, do not put your head underwater. Nobody wants to find hair floating around in the baths.
6. Be mindful of your voice. Communal bathing space are quiet spaces. If you want to have a conversation with a friend, keep it to a minimum and lower your voices.
7. Dry off completely. Don’t walk into the changing area dripping wet. Dry off first. That’s what the small towel is for.

Walking the Town in Yukata and Geta

Bathing is the reason you’re in Kinosaki, but an equally important part of the Kinosaki experience is walking through town from bathhouse to bathhouse dressed in a yukata and wooden geta sandals.

All ryokans provide yukata sets for their guests, including an obi sash and a warmer jacket (haori) in colder months. The ryokan I stayed in provided gumshoe boots for the winter months if you want something warmer covering your feet.

You can and should wear their yukatas both inside and outside the ryokan.

It is completely normal and expected to walk to the bathhouses, shops, and restaurants dressed like this.

This tradition gives Kinosaki, like other small onsen towns, a unique atmosphere, especially in the evening when the lanterns come on and the streets come alive with the soft collective clacking footsteps and the occasional laughter from returning bathers sharing a whispered conversations.

Where to Stay in Kinosaki

Staying in a ryokan is quintessential and arguably non-negotiable part of the Kinosaki Onsen experience. The great thing is that you can find these traditional inns in the budget range all the way up to the luxurious (and you do get what you pay for).

Most offer tatami rooms, futon bedding, and kaiseki dinners based off local and seasonal products and produce. Staying at a ryokan in Kinosaki will include access to both in-house bathhouses (some offer private baths), and the 7 public bathhouses.

Kaiseki Dinner and Teishoku Breakfast

Ryokan stays will often include two meals with your stay. Dinner is usually a multi-course kaiseki meal usually showcasing local ingredients.

Kinosaki is well-known for the snow crabs and Tajima beef, so there’s a high chance, there’ll be a dish or two featuring them in the your dinner.

Breakfast is a teishoku meal consisting of grilled fish, rice, miso soup, egg, and various side dishes.

Both are typically served in your room, though some ryokans may also have a dining room option. This is truly a memorable part of the whole experience, so it’s an area of your research that shouldn’t be overlooked.

Kinosaki Ryokan Recommendations

There are 74 ryokans in Kinosaki, most are concentrated along the willow-lined Otani River and a few are located along the bigger Maruyama River. When you exit the train station, you’ll even find a neat collection of wooden getas, each pair representing one of the operating ryokans in town.

The seven public bathhouses are located along the Otani River, so that’s where I recommend staying if you plan to visit them.

Below is the shortlist of accommodation option we always compile during our trip research, the places we were seriously considering and where we stayed during the two-night visit. I’ve saved the list for my next visit, since Kinosaki is one of those places I’m definitely planning to return.

They were both great, but I happened to be there during a local holiday, so I couldn’t stay where I really wanted to stay, which was the Ryokan Tsubakino.

It still worked out, since the public bathhouses were great.

Kinosaki On A Budget

Tsuchiya is centrally located and a great value option on a budget. Ichidaya and Onishiya Sushoen are also two reasonable budget-conscious choice if you want a classic ryokan experience without all the extras.

Tip: We traveled over a local holiday period, so many of the places I had shortlisted ended up being booked out on the first night. Always check for local holidays. If this is the case, broaden your search results by breaking up your stay.

I was able to find a last minute deal at Sinonomesou, for my first night. The ryokan was better than its review score indicated and included both dinner and breakfast. Really good value for its price.

Female travelers have a highly rated female-only option that’s very cheap at the Wakayo Guesthouse. They have Japanese style dormitories and private rooms for between $30-$50.

Tip: If you’re really on a tight budget or want to stay in a hostel, there’s the Toyooka Hostel Act. It’s in Toyooka, which is like a 25 minute train ride away from Kinosaki.

Toyooka is actually not a bad base if you want to visit Kinosaki and also explore the Hyogo region.

There’s the Tajima airport nearby, and it’s a hub station that connects to Izushi, Amanohashidate, Takenohama Beach, and Kannabe, where you can go lava trekking.

Mid-Range Accommodations In Kinosaki

Kobayashiya (recommended) had one of the best architecture and design that I saw and with its own private onsen. One of the ones that were already booked out on my dates unfortunately.

Another ryokan, Kojinmari, had that open bath tub we wanted in the room, but the particular Superior Twin Room wasn’t available on our dates.

Koyado Enn is a mid-range option with private baths, breakfast and dinner included, and even accommodates for solo travelers.

Top-End Accommodations In Kinosaki

Tsubakino (recommended) was my top choice. Their design caught my eye immediately. I loved their warm wood aesthetic design and the open onsen tubs inside the room. Breakfast and dinner is included in the prices, so it was fairly reasonable.

Mikuniya was near the top of my shortlist for their private baths. They have 3 stunning ones that are free to use with a reservation.

Sumeihei Bettei Tokitotoki looked beautiful if you prefer western-style beds instead of the Japanese style futons. Overall, with its spa and restaurant, it felt more like a modern hotel balanced with Japanese aesthetics.

If you don’t mind staying a 15 minute walk away from the main part of town, the Ooedo Monsen Monogatari has large rooms overlooking the Maruyama river. This is a good option if you are traveling with more than 2 people, and they have shuttles into the town every half hour.

Across the river is Ginka, a spacious luxury hotel with their own hot spring baths and views of the river. They offer shuttles into town and pick-up/drop-off from the train station. I personally prefer staying in the town, but if you want something more of an escape, this might be a great option.

Things To Do In And Around Kinosaki

Ultimately, you visit onsen towns to relax and recover. The baths and meals are usually the main attractions, without other distractions. But personally, a good onsen town in my books should have something for everyone, like a good hike, viewpoint, cultural landmarks, and some entertainment to pass the time.

Ropeway Hike To Onsenji Temple and Mount Dashi

At the end of the town is the Kinosaki Onsen Ropeway, which takes you to Mt. Dashi, with a stop at Onsenji Temple, by gondola.

The ride takes 7 minutes and a full-round trip cost ¥1100 to the top, with a possibility to stop at Onsenji Temple. Roundtrip to just Onsenji Temple is ¥650 and a 3/4 trip, where you walk the first part from the base to Onsenji Temple and then take the gondola up to the top and back down cost ¥900. You can buy tickets here.

Originally, it was a tradition for travelers to first the Onsenji Temple and receive a special ladle before they would bathe in the hot springs.

To properly experience this tradition, go up the mountain with a local guide, who can walk you through the ceremony and present you with one of those ladles. They can also guide you through the proper bathing etiquette as well if it’s your first time.

It’s not required nowadays, but it’s a nice way to earn that soak – especially if you choose to hike.

It’s a 15 minute walk up 500 stone steps from the base to Onsenji Temple and another 30-40 minute trail walk up to the top of Mt. Dashi. You can also take the gondola up with a discounted one-way ticket and hike down.

Wear shoes with good traction and if you’re visiting during the winter time, I strongly recommend a simple pair of micro-spikes that you can wear over your shoes if you feel the snow or ice gets slippery.

Visit The Retro Arcade and Shateki Shooting Gallery

For some fun and games, there are a couple of arcade galleries, where you can partake in some traditional games and win prizes. At the Taniguchiya Arcade, you can try your hand at the Japanese shooting game of Shateki, with the goal of hitting small targets using a pellet gun.

Even better, there’s a random arcade with vintage games that will delight anyone who wants to experience Japan’s past. The Center Amusement Space is located near the Goshonoyu Onsen, and next to the Takaraya Amusement Space where you can find some more conventional video games.

Cycle Along The River And GeoPark

If you want to learn about the thermal area and experience the countryside, there’s a 3 hour bike GeoPark tour that takes you along the river to the Sea of Japan. It covers around 15 km at a leisurely pace on a flat course.

Take A Straw Craft Workshop

At the Kamiya Mingei shop, Mr. Kamiya is one of the last master straw craftsmen and teaches the art form in his workshop. You learn how to design and weave a pattern onto your own keepsake straw craft box.

Day Trip to Izushi

If you’re staying longer and have some free time, you can take the train to Toyooka station and then a bus to the castle town of Izushi.

It’s a glimpse into samurai past, with a Meiji-era theater that’s been restored and puts on kabuki performances. You can visit the Eirakukan Theater and get a behind the scenes look at some of the original theater mechanisms like a resolving stage, trap door cellars and a hidden elevator for the actors to go from one place to another.

Nearby is the Izuzhi Castle Ruins. Certain elements like a wooden bridge have been recreated, but the highlight is path of tori gates leading you to the Inari Shrine at the foot of the impressive Arikoyama mountain.

What to Eat and Buy in Kinosaki

Kinosaki is located in Hyogo Prefecture, a region known for its seafood and Tajima beef. The most famous local delicacy is Matsuba crab, which is in season from November to March. Many ryokans serve it in multiple forms including grilled, steamed, and raw.

Even outside crab season, the seafood offerings in Kinosaki are high quality and widely available.

There are plenty of small treats to snack on like the fluffy cream bun right next to the train station or a hot steaming bao along the streets.

Other local specialties to look out for:

1. Onsen tamago: Whole boiled eggs slow-cooked in hot spring waters.
2. Tajima beef: From the same line as Kobe beef. Eat as much of this as you can. Random, but there’s a great burger spot, of all things, next to the train station.
3. Kinosaki pudding: A creamy vanilla-flavored dessert similar to flan and creme brûlée.
4. Handcrafted straw boxes: Local shops sell local handmade products. Kinosaki is famous for their handcrafted patterned boxes made from colored straws.
5. Local-only products: Every region produces their own packaged products that they only sell in certain towns or prefectures. They do a lot of Tajima Beef and Matsuba crab treats.
6. You won’t find most of these products in Kyoto or Tokyo.

Shops stay open into the evening, so it’s fun to just go for a stroll. I found it nice to have snacks in between visits to the different bathhouses. Breakfast and dinner as served my ryokan, so I just used the unaccounted meal to try the different treats in town.

Getting to Kinosaki Onsen

Kinosaki is easily accessible by train and is even possible as a day trip from Kyoto, Osaka, or Himeji.

From Kyoto

Take the JR Limited Express Kinosaki or Hashidate line from Kyoto Station to Kinosaki Onsen Station. The ride takes about 2.5 hours and is covered by the JR Pass and Kansai Wide Area Pass.

From Osaka

Take the JR Limited Express Konotori to Kinosaki Onsen. You may need to transfer at Fukuchiyama. The trip takes about 2.5 to 3 hours.

From Himeji or Kobe

From Himeji, take a local or express train to Toyooka and transfer to the train bound for Kinosaki Onsen. From Kobe, travel to Osaka or Himeji first, then follow the same route. Travel time is around 2 to 2.5 hours.

Local Transport and Tips

The town itself is walkable, and local buses service nearby areas. But some of these buses only accept cash, so it is best to have some small coins with you. IC cards like Suica and ICOCA work at the train stations but not in every vending machine. Carry some small coins when you’re going between bathhouses.

Other Things To Note

Most ryokans and larger shops accept credit cards, but many restaurants, bathhouses, and smaller stores are still cash only. There are ATMs near the train station and inside konbinis like the Lawsons in town.

Ryokans will provide baskets. These are great for carrying everything with you when going out to the bathhouses, including your towels, pass, phone, and wallet, etc. They also just complete the whole yukata outfit better than carrying your own bag, tote, or backpack.

Final Thoughts

After settling into my ryokan and sinking down into the warm healing waters at the first of its seven bathhouses, I was so glad I made this detour as a part of my trip to Kyoto. Easily one of the onsen towns I can see myself returning to since it’s quite accessible from Kyoto and Osaka.

Updated on July 7, 2025