Kurokawa Onsen: The Complete Guide + Ryokan and Bathhouse Recommendations

To kick off my first trip to Kyushu, the southwestern most of Japan’s main islands, I did to do a back-to-back-to-back onsen-hopping trip stopping at Beppu, Yufuin, and Kurokawa – three of the island’s most well-known hot spring towns.

You can add a fourth ‘back‘ if you count the onsen onboard the overnight Sunflower Ferry I took from Osaka to Beppu. I can check off morning bathing on a cruise ship from my growing bucket list.

The first stop was Beppu, a coastal town known for its hellishly hot geothermal pools that people come to admire more than soak in.

From there, I bused over and spent a night in Yufuin, a charming countryside town with art museums and a long picturesque alley filled with food stalls and cute boutique shops. It’s extremely popular with day-trippers from Fukuoka coming by way of the scenic Yufuin no Mori train. Charming, but busy.

You can read my travel report and recommendations for where to stay in Yufuin if you’re also planning to visit.

Of the three towns, the one I was secretly looking forward to the most was Kurokawa.

Tucked away in the mountains near Mt. Aso and surrounded by green forests, this quiet onsen town isn’t the kind of spot you just stumble upon. There’s no train station here and it’s only serviced by limited buses from Kumamato, Fukuoka or Yufuin.

That it takes a little more effort to get here is partly why it still feels like a secret passed from one traveler to another.

Unlike bigger commercial onsen town, walking from one bathhouse to another in your yukata doesn’t feel like playing dress-up. It feels like the real thing, a peaceful escape into nature where you can soak and relax.

Quick Jump Links

1. What Makes Kurokawa Special
2. How The Onsen Hopping Pass Works
3. How Many Nights To Stay In Kurokawa?
4. The Best Bathhouses To Visit For Onsen-Hopping
5. Where To Stay In Kurokawa
6. Restaurant Recommendations
7. Getting To Kurokawa

What Makes Kurokawa Onsen Special

The visual draw of Kurokawa are the floating bamboo lanterns over the Tanoharu River that runs through the town.

Fireflies. Forest spirits. Magic of the imagination.

At night, over 300 of these handmade lanterns glow like orbs and softly illuminate the riverbanks, making you feel like you’ve stepped into a Miyazaki film.

Locals get together and make new lanterns each year. It’s a source of pride and the luminous symbol of Kurokawa.

A Detox From The World

I’ve been to a lot of onsen towns across Japan, most away from big cities, but Kurokawa was the first one where I truly felt like I disconnected. No neon lights, gacha machines, or big souvenir soups, and not even a konbini. No 7-Eleven, no Lawson, no Family Mart. That was a first for me. Instead, there’s a small little grocery store and a few stalls that quietly serves these needs of locals and guests alike.

At night, you’ll just hear the river and the occasional clack of wooden geta sandals from other bathers going to or coming from a ryokan. Most stopping to adore the lights on the river. That’s more or less all there is to do and it’s perfect.

It’s a feeling that’s hard to explain, but once you’re here, you’ll get it. Kurokawa doesn’t need to impress you, but it will.

Truly Communal

But beyond the postcard views and tranquility, what really makes Kurokawa special is how the entire town works together to create an open and inviting onsen experience. Nearly every of the 30 or so ryokans here open their baths to outside guests through the Nyuto Tegata onsen hopping pass – a generous show of cooperation that gives the town a unique communal feel.

It’s not one or two of the larger inns doing their own thing. It’s everyone. Each ryokan independently operates their own bathhouse with its own feel and aesthetics, but the experience feels like it belongs to the whole village.

Twice, I was able to enjoy an entire bath to myself.

One in an expansive outdoor stone bath overlooking a series of cascades on the river. The other, a cozy wooden bath built inside a shipping container framing a view of the surrounding forests.

It was already so atmospheric with the morning mist floating across the scenery, but when it began to snow, I nearly cried in disbelief at how beautiful that moment was.

How The Nyuto Tegata Onsen Hopping Pass Works

For ¥1500 (¥700 for elementary school children), you get a wooden pass shaped like a round cedar medallion – the nyuto tegata. On the back are three stickers that you exchange for entry into a bathhouse.

Almost every ryokan in town participates. Just wander up to a ryokan of your choice, show them the pass, and they will be gladly remove the sticker and replace it with their ryokan’s stamp. Enjoy the bath.

If you feel like two bathhouse visits are enough, that third sticker can be traded for a drink, snacks, or souvenir at one of the many participating cafes or ryokans around town.

You can pick up things like a ryokan face towel, hot spring eggs and cider, dumpling sticks and tea, Japanese soft serve, or even a mug of beer. It’s a fun way to not waste a sticker if you’re all onsen-ed out.

At the end of your visit, you can take it home as a souvenir or tie it up with hundreds of others on a dedicated wooden post outside the Jizoson Buddhist Temple (location).

Arguably the hardest thing to do is to figure out which 2 or 3 bathhouses you’ll visit.

Yamamizuki is built alongside the riverbank. Kurakawasou has a milky blue sulfur bath surrounded by stones and forest. Ikoi has a unique standing bath under a wooden shelter with two hanging bamboos to keep you upright.

Tip: Visit your first bath around noon when check-in time hasn’t yet started. Most guests won’t have arrived, and you’ll have the pools almost to yourself.

And remember to bring towels (a small hand towel and a large one for drying off) since they are not provided. However, most ryokan will offer small onsen towels are sale if you forget.

How Many Nights Should You Spend In Kurokawa?

Most people will stay just one night in Kurokawa, and I think it’s enough to get a feel for the town, especially if you arrive early on the day of check-in and/or take the afternoon bus when leaving for Beppu, Kumamoto, or Fukuoka.

If you really want to disconnect, spend at least two nights and spread out your visits – or buy a second pass. Additional visits also just ¥500 – ¥800 for most onsen.

Really, you’re not saving a lot, but it’s one of those things that just make the whole experience all the more charming.

The Best Bathhouses in Kurokawa Onsen

With around 26 bathhouses accessible to the public with the Nyuto Tegata pass, it was a little overwhelming for me at first.

Note: Not all ryokans operate or open their baths everyday. For up to the minute hot spring availability and to see which baths are open, check the office website status page.

When you arrive, it’s essential to stop by the visitor information center and pick up the town map to orient yourself and know which baths are open that day and its bathing hours.

Honestly, looking through photos of all 26 baths did not help. I appreciate an aesthetically pleasing outdoor bath and they all looked amazing.

I’ve highlighted a few unique ones with different designs based on talking with the helpful staff member at the visitor center. I picked a few to visit during my time here, so this might at least narrow it down a bit.

Also, I found that despite the town being full, none of the baths ever get really crowded or busy since there are many, and they are spread out. One of the great things about Kurokawa compared to places like Hakone or Ginzan onsen.

Unique Baths

Yamamizuki: This is one of the largest and most beautiful outdoor baths I’ve ever visited and might be the most visited (rightfully) onsen in all of Kurokawa. It sits right by the river, and the postcard view from its outdoor bath is unmatched. The best part was I had over an hour at this bath all to myself.

It’s a bit of a trek to get to Yamamizuki from town, so go early in the morning or during the day before it gets dark. If you call the ryokan, they might offer a free shuttle.

Ikoi: I mentioned the standing bath earlier. Basically, it’s a little private nook where suspended bamboo poles allow you to just prop yourself up, sink back and relax. There’s a cold pool and sauna as well on the men’s side. At the right time of day, sunlight streams through the trees into the main bath.

Shinmeikan: This place feels like it belongs in Spirited Away when you enter. Besides being one of the better stays in town, they have a unique cave onsen that’s carved right into the rocks. Save this one for the late afternoon or evening since it’s in town and by the river.

Yamabiko: This ryokan is a little further away along the river, but if you decide to get out here, there’s a beautiful and rustic covered outdoor bath.

Mixed Gender Baths (Konyoku)

While the idea of men and women bathing naked together might not be for everyone, it’s actually a tradition that goes way back. A few of the ryokans in Kurokawa still offer mixed baths, which may be something to consider if you’re a couple that wants to bathe together.

Note: In mixed-gender baths, women can purchase or rent modesty towels to cover up while in the baths. Bathing suits are still not allowed.

You can read about my first mixed-gender konyoku experience and proper etiquette at the famous Sukayu Onsen in the Hakoda Mountains.

Okunoyu: This is probably my favorite onsen in Kurokawa and the ryokan I’d most recommend staying in. They offer nine different bathing options, including a stunning river bath (mixed), multiple outdoor baths (mixed and women only), a cave bath (mixed) and separate gender indoor baths.

Sanga Ryokan: It’s located a bit outside the town, but if you have a car, the seclusion at Sanga Ryokan gets you an open-air mixed gender bath surrounded by bamboo groves. It’s one of the most naturally beautiful onsen in town. It may be worth looking into staying here if you want a quiet escape.

Honorable Mentions

Misato is a sulfur spring so the waters will change colors or even be clear at times. Fumoto has two beautiful outdoor baths near the river, but their draw are all the private onsen available for free to guests or with a fee for visitors. Yukyou No Hibiki has a beautiful covered bath that opens out to the forest.

Note: Many ryokans rotate access to their baths depending on the time of day or gender, so check ahead or with the visitor center if there’s one you’re really keen on.

Where to Stay in Kurokawa

There’s a strategy I came up with deciding on whether to stay and where to bathe. The map below will you give a better sense of the town and distances.

For reference, the walk from the Bus Stop to the Visitor Information Center is 700m and around 11 minutes downhill. The area highlighted in yellow is the actual town. There’s not much outside that yellow block except for ryokans, and it’s quite dark at night. If you are traveling here without a car, you’ll have to rely on the shuttle service from your ryokan, if its available, or have to walk

The walk from town to Yamamizuki takes about 30 minutes. It’s a lovely walk though.

I stayed at the Kurokawa Container House Villa. It was only a 12 minute walk from town, but at night, it was dark and felt long walking along the car road without a separate walking path. Something to consider.

If you do not have a car, I recommend choosing your accommodation inside the town.

During the daytime, you can go for a longer walk (30 minutes) out to one of the more tucked away ryokan and bathhouses like Yamamizuki (location). At night, you can bathe at your own ryokan or in one of the ones in town like

Ryokan Recommendations In Kurokawa

Here are a few notable places worth checking out:

1. Okunoyu

Onsen Okunoyu was the one place I wished was available during my stay. Book this one ahead of time if you can.

Okunoyu checks every box that I was looking for.

It’s located in town, priced reasonably, and have nine different baths, including a few mixed-gender outdoor baths. From 8 pm onwards until 8:30 am, the baths are only for guests and from 8 – 10 pm, a couple of the mixed-gender outdoor baths are female only.

They have both Japanese and Western style rooms with terraces opening out to the forest, and their reasonable prices included both breakfast and a kaiseki dinner.

This was one of the baths we visited, and I had to politely asked to check out the place to satisfy my curiosity.

2. Container House Villa Kurokawa

The Container House Villa was a surprise that gave me one of the most memorable bathing experiences in all of Japan. When I was looking for a place relatively last minute, most of the ryokans I had bookmarked were unavailable.

The Container House Villa was new, had no reviews yet, and was not even a ryokan in any sense.

It was a modern studio apartment concept that utilized shipping containers as rooms, which, to be fair, did look clean and cozy. And they even put an onsen bath inside a container.

I was intrigued and took a chance because of the low price, and honestly, the lack of options.

I’ll say this. If you’re traveling solo, or just want a place to sleep while you visit the other onsen in town, this might be a great option for you. I was very happy with my stay.

That pleasant surprise was that the two container baths were better in real life than the photos they had, and it looked and framed the misty forest. There are only 5 rooms in total, so we both had the entire baths to ourselves while we were there. I was blown away the first time, so returned in the morning.

And somehow, bathing again at 7 am, the experience was one-upped when snow started falling outside. A new lasting memory I still think about from time to time.

The only negative things, which are also reflected in their current review score, are the lack of any staff (self check-in) and the location that’s slightly out of town. It’s only a 12 minute walk, but you share the road with cars, and it’s quite dark at night. Not a problem at all if you’re driving, since there’s parking here.

3. Onsen Gosho Gekkoju

It’s out of my range, but Gosho Gekkoju is absolutely the most upscale ryokan experience in Kurokawa. The only thing is a price tag that might be hard to justify, given the other great options in town, unless you’re splurging. But maybe I just need to be richer.

All their rooms come with private outdoor baths that range from stunning to ‘so this is what money can buy.’

This is one of those places where you probably won’t need to go onsen hopping and with just 8 rooms in the entire property, there’s plenty of privacy. Each one is more like a villa than a room.

Every room has a uniquely designed private onsen, but check out the one that comes with the Yoimachi room.

4. Shinmeikan

A small wooden connects the timeless Yama No Yado Shinmeikan to the town and its position right over the river gives it an extra magical feeling at night. This is that Spirited Away vibe both inside and in, especially when its snowing.

The baths here are particular atmospheric, with one in a cave, and another shrouded by bamboo and straw walls and roofing supported by rustic wood beams.

Guests staying can also book private time in the outdoor baths, just for themselves.

5. Fumoto Ryokan and Onsen Oyado Noshiyu

Fumoto Ryokan a cozy ryokan is right in town. It’s mid-range as far as price and would easily meet the needs of most travelers looking for an authentic and traditional ryokan experience with the full breakfast and kaiseki dinner.

The main draw is that Fumoto has 15 different tubs for use. 11 of them are private pools that can be used for free by guests, which was something I overlooked until I had my eye-opening experience.

6. Yukyou No Hibiki Yusai

Located right at the start of the town, the modern Yukyou No Hibiki Yusai has an impressive lobby and common area that opens out to the surrounding forest. The rooftop terrace has a telescope for stargazing on a clear night.

All the rooms look comfortable and clean, and all for one of the more reasonable prices in town, considering the ridiculous breakfast buffet and kaiseki dinner.

7. Ryokan Wakaba

Wakaba is one of those ryokan that I felt like I would be transported back in time. Everything from the wood hearth to the straw-covered outdoor bath looks like you’re escaping into the samurai era. Prices are in the mid-range, with options for Japanese tatami futon or Western style beds and all options include breakfast and dinner.

8. Yamabiko Ryokan

I think of Yamabiko as the family-friendly and dog-friendly ryokan of Kurokawa. They even have their own bear-like house dog keeping guests company on the premises. Rooms look spacious and can accommodate larger groups or family.

There’s a small and large outdoor bath, that alternate gender daily, and two separate indoor baths. But they also have 6 private family baths that can be reserved.

Restaurant and Food Recommendations In Kurokawa

There are only five proper restaurants in Kurokawa along with a couple of cafes, snack and tea stalls, and one small grocery store. And not everyone one of them will be open at all times.

Note: Most ryokans offer both breakfast and dinner as part of their stay, which in my opinion is an essential part of a ryokan stay in Japan.

Restaurants

There’s Warokuya (location), right by the Marusuzu Bridge that serves beef bowls, chicken karate, curries, and cutlets. All the dishes that satisfy meat lovers. They only do lunch from 11 – 4 pm and are closed on Thursdays and Fridays. We did lunch here when we first arrived.

Sumiyoshi (location) is a small old-fashioned shop that serves up a few simple dishes like katsudon, beef udon and oyakodon for a low price while Yamatake (location) does rustic Japanese dining with food cooked over charcoal and a wood hearth. Their menu sets focus on simple preparations of root vegetables and proteins like beef and fish.

Iroriya (location) is a small izakaya that serves many classic Japanese dishes as well as some exotic dishes like horse meat sashimi and seared chicken sashimi. Both are worth trying. They 0nly open at dinner from 6 to 10:30 pm and are closed on Saturdays and Wednesdays.

Tofu Kissho (location) is a tofu shop with a restaurant that serves vegetarian meals. There’s a cute adjoining stall that sells tea and Japanese dumplings on sticks called dango. 

Snacks and Treats

Yunon Cafe (location) serves ice cream and coffee for an afternoon treat. Dora Dora (location) is a sweets shop that sells Japan’s version of pancakes with bean fillings called dorayaki. Terakoya (location) does homemade Japanese rice crackers but also sells packaged version to take away.

Hiorano Shoten Tsukemono (location) is a cute little shop you can stop by for a Japanese pickle or to pick up some of their other preserved vegetables to take home as souvenirs.

Apero (location) does donuts, coffee, and something like a root beer float with ice cream and soda. If you have proper sweet tooth or crave pastries, check out Patisserie Roku (location).

Lastly, there are a few vending machines around town, but if you are looking for the closest thing to a konbini or grocery shop, Goto Liquor Store (location) will be that place. And although this is not a food shop, I thought it’d be worth mention the cute Raifu Curio Shop (location) if you’re looking for local handmade souvenirs.

One Last Thing To Consider

Traditionally, the onsen experience is a communal one. I don’t mind the whole bathing naked around strangers. If it’s your first time, just read about the basic bathing etiquette and go with it. No one cares about you being naked. No one is looking.

That said, if you have the chance, whether it’s included in your ryokan stay, or there’s an option to pay a little more, consider trying a private bath.

There’s something so magical about slipping into your own private onsen with no one else around, especially when it’s outdoors and you’re surrounded by nature. Many ryokans offer rooms with kashikiri private baths either attached to your room or bookable by the hour.

After my experience in Kurokawa, it’s now something I keep an out for when I’m searching for onsen towns and ryokans.

Basic Onsen Etiquettes For Bathing In Japan

If it’s your first time bathing in a hot spring in Japan, you should learn and observe these basic rules and etiquettes.

1. Clean yourself or rinse before entering. There’s always an area where you can shower or wash up before entering a communal bath. If not, you’re meant to use a small bucket to rinse yourself with the hot spring water before entering.
2. No clothes or bathing suit. It’s normal and expected to bath completely nude, even in a communal pool. Men and women usually have their own separate bathing area. There are some onsen that have traditional mixed-gender bathing. Do not wear a bathing suit or a towel when bathing.
3. No visible tattoos. Most onsen and bathhouses prohibit tattoos. If yours is small enough and can be covered with special waterproof adhesive tape, you may be allowed in. There are often private onsen options for those with tattoos.
4. Do not submerge your towel. Most bathers bring in a small hand towel for wiping off sweat and drying off before returning to the changing area. Do not submerge your towel in the water. Most people will keep it on their shoulders or on top of their heads.
5. Do not submerge your head underwater. For hygienic reasons, do not put your head underwater. Nobody wants to find hair floating around in the baths.
6. Be mindful of your voice. Communal bathing space are quiet spaces. If you want to have a conversation with a friend, keep it to a minimum and lower your voices.
7. Dry off completely. Don’t walk into the changing area dripping wet. Dry off first. That’s what the small towel is for.

Getting to Kurokawa Onsen

From Beppu to Kurokawa:  There is 1 direct bus a day that leaves from Beppu Station direct to Kurokawa Onsen via Yufuin that leaves at around 8 am from Beppu Station Honmachi. The ride is about 2.5 to 3 hours.

Alternatively, you can take a local bus from Beppu to Yufuin and then follow the Yufuin to Kurokawa route.

You can download the schedule here. The official online booking site is here.

1. Select the Beppu -> Yufuin -> Kurokawa Onsen -> Aso -> Kumamato Route.
2. Select the Honmachi station as the departure and Kurokawa Spa as the arrival.

You can also buy the ticket at the station, but I recommend doing it at least a day ahead of time since seats regularly sell out.

From Yufuin to Kurokawa: There are 3 direct buses each day (9:00 am, 1:50 pm, and 2:50 pm) to Kurokawa and the ride is about 90 minutes. I recommend taking the first bus so you arrive early enough to have lunch and go visit a bathhouse before checking in.

You can download the schedule here. The official online booking site is here.

1. Select the Beppu -> Yufuin -> Kurokawa Onsen -> Aso -> Kumamato Route.
2. Select the Yufuin Station Bus Center station as the departure and Kurokawa Spa as the arrival.

Really Important: If you’re leaving Kurokawa by bus, book ahead as these buses do sell out. This happened to us, and we were lucky to get standby seats after everyone with tickets had boarded.

From Fukuoka to Kurokawa: There are 3 direct buses each day (9:15 am, 11:15 am, and 12:40 pm) from Tenjin Station / Hakata Station / Fukuoka Airport). The trip takes about 2:15 – 3 hours depending on where you board.

You can download the schedule here. You can book on the official site here.

1. Select Departure Prefecture: Fukuoka and Arrival Prefecture: Kumamoto
2. Select Route: Fukuoka/Fukuoka Airport – Kurokawa Onsen
3. For Boarding Station, choose Hakata Bus Terminal if you’re leaving from the city or Fukuoka Airport if you’re leaving directly from the airport.

Alternatively, you can take the scenic JR Yufuin No Mori Train from Fukuoka to Yufuin and follow the instructions from Yufuin to get to Kurokawa Onsen. There are 3 daily train departures at 9:17 am 10:11 am, and 2:38 pm from Hakata Station to Yufuin.

You can find more information and booking info here.

From Kumamoto/Aso to Kurokawa: There are 3 direct buses each day (9:15 am, 11:15 am, and 12:40 pm) from Kumamoto Station or the Aso area to Kurokawa Onsen.

You can download the schedule here. The official online booking site is here.

1. Select the Kumamato -> Aso -> Kurokawa Onsen  -> Yufuin  -> Beppu Route
2. Select the Kumamoto Station Bus Stop or Kumamoto Sakuramachi Bus Terminal as the departure, depending on which is closer, and Kurokawa Spa as the arrival.

Final Thoughts

Kurokawa Onsen is one of those places that lives up to expectations and what everyone else says about it. Of the three nearby onsen towns, Kurokawa is my clear favorite over Yufuin and Beppu.

If you’re after that tranquil onsen experience escape with the timeless wooden buildings, steamy forested mornings, and a nightscape that feels like a fairy tale, this Kurokawa might just be it.

If you’re interested about other special onsen towns in Japan, check out some of my other onsen experiences in Japan.

Updated on July 8, 2025