Known as the Valley of the Moon and home to the real life Lawrence of Arabia, Wadi Rum is an unspoilt desert in Jordan with massive cliffs and jagged sandstone mountains that look like they desperately escaping from the ground before being frozen in time and turned to stone. At dawn and dusk, the red of the sand comes to life and you are left wondering if you are still on this planet of ours. After spending time in the Sahara desert in Morocco and the white and black deserts of the Bahariya oasis in Egypt, I didn’t exactly jump for joy at the idea of doing another desert trip just a month apart. I’m glad my friend Jen convinced me to skip a day in Petra to join her in Wadi Rum. Besides, who’s going to say no to pretty flight attendant?
Desert 4 x 4 Adventure
Our Bedouin adventure started with a 4 x 4 ride through the Wadi Rum desert to explore the surrounding mountains and valleys. At Jebel Khazali, a popular location for climbing and scrambling, we explored one of the natural slot openings.
In my books, you have to have sand dunes to call yourself a desert. Congratulations Wadi Rum, you’re a real desert.
Next stop: The Jabal Um Fruth Rock Bridge. It’s a natural arch much like some of the ones at Arches National Park in Utah. With a good pair of shoes and some scrambling, most people can get to the top. Just don’t look down while crossing some of the more narrow parts.
Goats Need To Eat Too
We stopped for lunch and a break. It was pretty peaceful until the goats came along and decided to overpower us with their numbers stealing half our lunch in the process.
This was Jen enjoying her banana right before the goats came rushing.
This was the goat that took it from her.
Just before sunset, we make it to camp where the real beauty of Wadi Rum was just about to reveal itself. The Bedouin camp couldn’t have been placed in a more perfect location with a small rocky mountain that gave us an even grander 360 view of the desert. As the sun began dropped to a lower angle, the granite developed a reddish glow. I usually wait for the sun to drop below the horizon to softly light up the sky and clouds above, but here, I just wanted it to stay still.
In the evening, dinner was prepared for us in the Bedouin style of underground cooking. Round metal racks filled with potatoes, onions and chicken were stacked on top of each other, covered and buried in the ground with hot coals where it cooked for hours until the vegetable and chicken were so tender it just melted right in your mouth.
Sunrise in Wadi Rum
I woke just before dawn and climbed back atop the rocks to wait for day to break. The soft warm glow of morning light began to spread slowly across the expanse of the desert revealing the details of the sandstone and granite. Even before the sun came over the the peaks, everything was already glowing red. When it finally arrived, it really felt like I was seeing a sunrise for the first time.
The best part was there was an old car seat already up there so you can really sit back and enjoy the view.
I only slept for a few hours that night on this creaky bed, but sleeping under the stars with nothing but the desert around was incredibly energizing.