72 Hours In Seville Guide: Must Do’s + Foodie Itinerary 2024

From my personal journal.

In Sevilla, I feel a dusting of magic in the air that’s only present in the Andalusia region of Spain. Under the unrelenting sun, I can smell the Sahara and feel the sear of its heat on the back of my neck whispering for me to see refuge in shaded sanctuary. The cool evening breeze is the awaited signal for its residents and guests to pour back out to the streets and resume their routines before beginning their nightly rituals and festivities. It is Spain, but unlike any other part of the country. 

Its history is a dance and clash of cultures, continents, and religions. Even now, I can touch a past that is etched into the very foundation of the city’s oldest and most iconic buildings. Churches that were once mosques that were once churches, hallowed halls under different gods, shares the same roof that remains today. It’s there in plain sight to see. 

In the pulsing rhythm and hypnotic sounds of Flamenco, born from the gypsies of the region, I can hear the echoes of its Arab and Berber influences.  I can taste in those same influences in the spices and flavors of dishes that pass from kitchen to table. It is Spanish, but unlike any other part of the country.

Seville, or Sevilla in Spanish is one of my favorite places in Spain. Like Granada, the city is a confluence of its Spanish and Moorish past that has not only survived but is celebrated – in its music, art, and cuisine.

It is not North Africa, but you would be forgiven if you mistaken parts of the city for Marrakech.

How Many Days You Should Spend In Sevilla?

Like most bustling urban cities, Sevilla deserves time to truly understand what makes it special. Each time I come back, there’s some place that I incredulously missed the time before or a charming corner cafe I wander by that feels like it was pulled from a movie. You can easily spend a week here with no agenda and never be bored.

For a first time visit, 3-4 days is enough time to get a good taste of the city – and perhaps prompt a promise to yourself to return.

The center is home to all the famous buildings and markets, places to watch Flamenco, and clusters of tapas bar to satisfy all your cravings. It’s easily walkable and you can do quite a few things each day even with a few hours set aside for an afternoon siesta and break from the heat.

This is more or less a curated itinerary of what I’ve done during my visits to Sevilla.  You can use it as a guidelines to build out your own itinerary. In the following sections, I list out all the important places to see and some fun activities and experiences so you can swap things in and out.

And of course, part of the charm to cities like Sevilla is just walking around and discovering places on your own.

Places To See | Things To Do | Airport Transportation

My Recommended 3 Day Sevilla Itinerary

Day 1 Afternoon

First day is for settling in. Wherever you end up staying, find a bar or cafe and ask for a caña, the Spanish shorthand for a small beer or a Tinto de Verano – equal parts red wine and lemon-lime soda. It might sound strange if you’ve never had something like it, but it’s the Andalusian summer drink of choice and similar to a Sangria.

If you find yourself in the Triana area before 3 pm, I would head straight to La Grande San Jacinto, a local favorite. Order a drink and don’t be surprised when they bring along a free plate of shrimps.

This tapas bar serves up a variety of mostly seafood tapas, but the house specialty is the small Huelva shrimps. Order an extra ration to go with your drinks. The saltiness of the shrimp, which can be eaten whole, pairs perfectly with a cold glass of beer.

Seville is famous for Flamenco, so start with an early show at Teatro Flamenco Sevilla. There is a perfectly timed performance at 5:30 pm when it’s still hot out and too early to do anything else. Sometimes, they have even have a discounted show at 1:00 pm. I went to five different Flamenco shows in a week and this was probably my favorite, but read my Flamenco wrap-up to decide yourself.

Alternatively, save the Flamenco for the another afternoon/evening and go on this highly regarded foodie walking tour to get acquainted with the food scene and the city with a local foodie guide.

Day 1 Evening

For golden hour and sunset, you have three good options:

1. Head over to Plaza Espana before the sun sets and take a walk around the stunning lake, fountains and parks. Probably one of most beautiful square in the world. You can even rent a row boat and go around the canal for just €6.

2. Explore Barrio Santa Cruz, the oldest quarter in Seville, and its historic beating heart. This is where I’ll recommend you spend the first evening enjoying Tapas.

3. If you want something active, rent a stand-up paddle board and see the city along the river or join a sunset group session.

The tapas bars and restaurants start opening around 8 pm. The Barrio Santa Cruz area, specifically Calle Mateos Gago is a well-known street full of people and tables outside. It’s popular with tourists, for good reasons, and a great way to take in the Sevilla tapas scene. Check out Las Columnas or Bar Catedral.

Enjoy a drink late in the night and get lost walking down the narrow alleys. I’ve done this a few times and somehow always end up right back at the the Cathedral and Bell Tower. If you want some ice cream to accompany your walk, check out Gelateria MITO.

Day 2 Morning

Get up early and head to Bar El Comercio to fuel up on fresh orange juice and churros with chocolate at this iconic no-frills establishment.

Be the first to enter the Real Alcazar when it opens at 9:30 am to avoid the crowds. Give yourself about 2 hours here.

If you’re going to visit one building in Sevilla, it has to be this royal palace that looks like it was magically transported from Morocco. I strongly advise joining a guided tour or getting a guide so you can hear the many stories about this place.

You can slowly wander through the Barrio Santa Cruz area and visit the Archivo General de Indias before taking a break for a slightly later lunch. A lot of places will close in the afternoon and won’t open again until after 8 pm. You can check out Pelayo Bar, El Pinton or Ovejas Negras Tapas in the area.

Alternatively, La Tienda De Placido Y Grata was favorite find of mine for their coffee and eclectic menu in a beautiful space.

Day 2 Afternoon and Evening

After lunch, I would do as the Spaniards do and head back for an afternoon siesta. It’ll refresh you for the evening and help you avoid the hottest time of the day.

If you don’t need a break, you can use the afternoon time to visit the Centro Andalusia de Arte Contemporaneo. It’s a good transition to the second highlight of the evening.

About 45 minutes to 1 hour before sunset, head up to Las Setas. You really shouldn’t skip this. It’ll be crowded but it’s the most beautiful time to visit and see a 360° view of the city bathed in a golden glow. You can expect to spend about 60-90 minutes here.

Afterwards, walk towards Alameda de Hercules via Calle Feria area for tapas and drinks. La Hermandad del Sushi is what you get if you took a local tapas bar and fused it with a Japanese Izakaya. Bar Casa Vizcaino is was one of my favorite spots to join the locals for a drink at night.

Fatouch is a great Lebanese restaurant a couple of doors down. It’s a good option for dinner, but I recommend you save this place for lunch instead.

The Alameda de Hercules area is a great hang out spot to end the night. There are plenty of tapas restaurants and bars on the Main Street, but I recommend walking a little further north to Duo Tapas.

Day 3 Morning

Start the morning off with a visit to one of the three markets. There’s the Mercado de Triana, Mercado de Feria, and the Mercado de la Encarnacion. They are all nice, so it just depends on which area you’re staying in. There are many options to put together a local breakfast, and I cannot resist a good Tortilla Española and some Jamon Iberico.

The Sevilla Cathedral opens at 10:45 am, so you should be there around 10:30 am. Once inside, head straight for La Giralda Bell Tower and beat the crowd. You can leisurely visit the rest of the cathedral afterwards and more people queue up for the tower.

There’s a list of my favorite restaurants below if you need help picking a spot for lunch. If you want a break from tapas or Spanish cuisine, get the Sofra tasting menu at Fatouch or head to Akira for all-you-can-eat sushi and Japanese food.

Day 3 Afternoon and Evening

In the afternoon, you can partake in the siesta tradition or visit the Plaza de Toros to tour the famous bullring stadium. The bullfighting season is usually from Easter until October with most of the events happening in April and May. There are usually a couple of dates in June, July and September as well.

If you want to do some shopping, you can find all the major shops in the Centro area, or go along Calle Feria and Calle Regina towards Alameda de Hercules for a bunch of vintage and antique shops.

For the last sunset, you can rent a bike and ride along the river or wander around the Triana area and stop at some of the street corner tapas restaurants like the Callao Bodega Triana. I also like the unassuming Bodeguita el 24.

If you haven’t caught a Flamenco show at one of the tablao, you can see if there’s a Pena Flamenco show going on in Triana, one of the neighborhoods famed for the tradition.

For the last evening meal, you can go casual at one of the recommend spots on my foodie list for Sevilla or go somewhere with a unique ambiance like Restaurante San Marco, housed in a 12th century Moorish bathhouse.

Places To See and Visit

Here’s quick breakdown of the major places to visit:

1. Real Alcazar*
2. Las Setas de Sevilla*
3. Plaza de Espana
4. Seville Cathedral + Giralda Tower
5. Casa de Pilatos
6. Archivo General De Indias
7. Hospital de los Venerables
8. Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo

*Must Visit

Real Alcázar

The Real Alcázar is the old royal palace famous for its combination of Moorish and Renaissance architecture. The ornate interiors and lush gardens make this a must-see, especially if you haven’t visited Morocco or the Alhambra in Granada.

The Alcazar shares similarities with the Alhambra. It’s worth visiting both, if you’re wondering, for the history and stories. If you just want to see some Moorish architecture, either one will suffice.

I’ve come here twice in my visits to Seville and it’s much better with a guide sharing the stories and significance of what you are seeing. Seeing the other groups, we were glad ours was a lot smaller.

TIP: Definitely avoid the long queue and buy your tickets at least a few days in advance because the timed admissions do actually sell out, sometimes over a week out in the high season. I recommend getting the first time slot at 9:30 am so you experience the place before it gets too crowded.

Las Setas de Sevilla (Metropol Parasol)

Also known as the Mushroom of Seville, this unique and massive wooden structure at Seville Km 0 is a modern architectural marvel that contrasts with the city’s surrounding historic landmarks.

From the center, you get a sweeping panoramic city views as you make your way through its snaking walkway.

The Mercado de la Encarnación located below the structure is worth visiting in the mornings.

TIP: Book your tickets online at least one day in advance and try to time your visit to be around 45 minutes before sunset. Multiple times, I’ve seen people turned away when they try to buy it in person because it was sold out for the day.

There’s a 15 minute immersive movie, every 15 minutes that you can watch first. At night, there’s a colorful light snow.

Plaza De Espana

The main square in Sevilla is one of the most beautiful plazas I’ve seen in all of Spain. The semicircular design was commissioned and built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition and combines classic Renaissance architecture and Moorish elements. It’s surrounded by a canals and bridges with colorful tiled alcoves

Seville Cathedral + Giralda Tower

Seville Cathedral has two major claims:

1) It is the largest Gothic Cathedral in the world, and only smaller in size compared to St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and St. Paul’s in London.

2) It is home to Christopher Columbus’ tomb.

That alone might be worth the visit for history buffs, plus the climb to the top of Giralda Tower bell tower is great for a view of the city.

There is an entrance fee of about €12 (€17 with the audio guide) to enter, so it’s up to you to decide if you want to pay to enter a cathedral when so many others in Europe are free.

TIP: If you do go, it’s best to book at least one day in advance to avoid the queue and get the entry time you want. I suggest early morning on a separate day from the Alcazar since you’ll want to visit that right when it opens.

Casa de Pilatos

If you want to see a beautiful palace that has similar Moorish and Renaissance architecture to the Alcazar without the crowds, visit the Casa de Pilatos instead.

The 16th-century palace has beautiful patios, gardens, and a fine art collection. This is definitely worth a visit if you have some a spare hour.

Archivo General de Indias

Inside this beautiful building are the archives of Spain’s colonial empire and a treasure trove of historic documents for history lovers interested in the Spanish exploration and colonization of the Americas.

Hospital de los Venerables

A former baroque retirement home for priests, this beautifully restored building now serves as an art center, featuring works by Velázquez and offering a quiet retreat in the heart of Barrio Santa Cruz.

Centro Andaluz de Arte Contemporáneo

Located in a former monastery and ceramic factory, this modern art museum offers a unique combination of historic architecture and contemporary art, making it a hub for culture and creativity in Seville.

Fun Activities And Alternative Things To Do

Experience A Flamenco Show

Flamenco with its distinctive guitar strumming and rhythm, yearnful singing and deeply passionate dancing is hypnotizing to watch. And Seville is considered one of the birthplaces of Flamenco. It’s a must-do and if you have the time, I would see more than one performance as there are many different options.

Have A Beer and Shrimps at Local Favorite La Grande

There just something about this lively old-school bar that feels like you’ve stumbled into some place special. La Grande San Jacinto, as it turns out is a local favorite. It’s just one of those places where you turn up in the early afternoon to hang out with friends.

They mostly do seafood tapas, and the highlight are the small Huelva shrimps. They plate a few for free to go with your cold drinks, but I recommend order an extra ration because they are so good. You can eat them whole. I would never have guessed that a cold beer and some steamed shrimps would be one of the most memorable and enjoyable things I’d eat in Seville. But there you go.

Go Stand-Up Paddle-Boarding On The River

When the weather is warm, a morning or sunset paddle board session down the tranquil waters of the Guadalquivir River is a different way to see the city. It’ll also work up an appetite for all the tapas. You can join a sunset group session or just rent a stand-up paddle board and explore yourself. The landing area below the Puente del Cristo de la Expiracion bridge is a good place to launch.

There’s also kayaking rentals if you don’t feel confident on a stand-up paddle board.

Go Vintage Shopping On Calle Féria and Calle Regina

I was surprised by all the vintage and artisanal clothing shops in Seville. So if you like hunting for that random find, head to the shops along Calle Feria and Calle Regina, where there’s quite a few places for eclectic, second-hand clothing, antiques, and local goods that captures the city’s bohemian vibes.

Row A Bow In Parque de Maria Luisa

Another way to take in the Plaza de Espana is to rent a row boat and go around the semicircular canal. It’s about €6 euros for 30 minutes. Great for couples and families and golden hour is when I’d go.

Take A Rooftop Cooking Class

If you like the Spanish cuisine here, you can learn how to prepare some of the region’s famous dishes and then enjoy the meal after. There’s a cooking class that takes place in a chef’s rooftop kitchen at sunset that’s great for couples. Chef Fernando shows you how to prepare an authentic paella and sangria and gives you a panoramic tour of the city.

Bike Along The Guadalquivir River

The almost “free” bikes in Sevilla are a great way to get around the city, especially to explore the river front. The Sevici bike sharing system allows you to take the bikes out for 30 minutes at a time for free as many times as you like after you buy the one-day €2.59 pass. If you exceed 30 minutes, it costs only €1.03 for the first hour and €2.04 for every hour after that.

Tapas Crawl In Alameda de Hércules or Barrio Santa Cruz

You should spend a couple of slow evenings just hanging out at a tapas bar or two in the Barrio Santa Cruz (Old Jewish Quarter) or along Alameda de Hercules in the Feria area. These are two popular spots if you like the bustling nighttime vibe.

Cities like Sevilla are great for food tours. We went on the Tapas, Taverns and History tour with Mario from Spain Food Sherpas and we were glad to have a foodie guide that seemed genuinely excited to share his knowledge of the city.

In total, we had about eight different dishes spots like La Flor de Toranzo and Bodega La Aurora. None of the places were already on my list, so we were introduced to shops and taverns that I otherwise would have missed. I’ve taken many food tours around the world and this one was worth it.

Shop At One Of The Mercados In The Morning

Between the Mercado de Triana, Mercado de Feria, and the Mercado de la Encarnacion, which is the best market to visit? It honestly doesn’t matter. I like that I saw locals shopping in all three Mercados, so it’s not just for tourists.

The Mercado de Feria is the oldest produce market in Sevilla and opens Monday – Saturday from 8 am to midnight. This is probably the most local of the markets as evident by the people you see shopping here. Plenty of food stalls as well.

The Mercado de Triana focuses more on meat products and the building is quite historic and building. It’s probably the most touristy of the three markets, but still worth visiting, especially in the mornings. It’s open Monday – Saturday from 8 am to 6 pm and from 9 am to 6 pm on Sundays.

The Mercado de la Encarnacion is the first market in the city and also its newest market because of all the renovation and reconstruction of recent years. It’s hidden in plain sight right under the mushroom-shaped Las Setas monument surrounding by the ancient Roman ruins that were uncovered during the construction process. I actually shopped here a few times and the prices were very reasonable. This is probably where I’d shop if I lived in Sevilla.

It’s open Monday – Saturday from 8 am to 3 pm.

See A Bullfight At the Plaza de Toros

You can always tour the stadium, but it’s probably not worth it when a bullfight is not happening. The bullfighting season in Spain is between April and October. In Sevilla, the first two weeks of April is the best time to visit if you want to see a bullfight there’s an event every day during that period. There’s usually a few more fights in May and June and then a couple in September.

You can find their full schedule here.

How To Get From Seville Airport (SVQ) To City Center (2024 Current Prices)

You can get to the city center from by taxi, private transfer or a special bus line.

Recommendation: Take the bus or an Uber/Bolt.

By Bus

The EA bus line (“Especial Aeropuerto”) is the only bus that services the Seville Airport with the city.

There is only one terminal (T1) at the Seville Airport. The Arrivals Hall and Baggage Claim area are both on Level 0. As soon as you exit, turn right and walk towards the ticket kiosk.

It costs €5 for a one way ticket. There is a roundtrip option for €6, but the return trip is only valid for the same day or the next day.

From the airport, the first bus leaves at 5:20 am and last bus leaves at 1:00 am.

From Plaza de Armas (first stop), the first bus leaves at 4:30 am and the last bus leaves 12:05 am.

The buses depart quite regularly, every 12 – 24 minutes depending on the time of the day, and the journey takes around 35-45 minutes depending on traffic.

By Taxi

The journey from the Seville Airport (SVQ) to the city center takes around 15-20 minutes and is the most efficient option.

Taxis have a fixed rate from the airport to the city (Seville ring).

€24,98 from Monday to Friday (7 am to 9 pm).

€27,84 from Monday to Friday (9 pm – 7 am) + Weekends and Holidays.

€34,79 during Holiday Week and Feria de Abril from 9 am to 7 pm.

By Bolt or Uber, it’s a bit cheaper at around €18-26, depending on the time of day.

TIP: I always check prices for both Uber and Bolt to see which is lower. If you haven’t used Bolt before, it’s basically a global competitor to Uber and is often cheaper in many countries, especially with their frequent automatic promos.

Sign up for Bolt (iOS | Android) with this code: KIENL5B to get a discount off your first few rides. The promotion will vary by country and time.

By Private Transfer

If you’re rather avoid the taxi queue, you can always book a private pick-up with a driver waiting at arrivals with your name. This is a good option if you have traveling with 4 or more people.

It’s €34 for up to 4 people. For up to 8 people, it is €65.

Looking for more travel inspirations? Scroll through some of the 450+ experiences on my bucket list. Maybe you’ll find your next adventure on there.

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Updated on September 14, 2024