The Complete Guide To Seville’s Most Authentic Flamenco Shows 2024
The Complete Guide To Seville’s Most Authentic Flamenco Shows 2024
From my personal journal.
I went to a flamenco show tonight by the river in a small bar with enough seats for maybe 20 people. A few more packed standing up along the back wall. Granada was an unplanned stop, but it is like no other place thus far on my travels. Sitting up front and so close to the performers, I felt the very pulse and force of every foot stomp and tap. The movements blurred and appeared5 untamed, but there is a clear and clean rhythm that flows and syncs with the hand clapping of the singers and the hummingbird-like finger picking of the guitarist. The skirt of the woman’s dress spins like a top and with each rotation, edges closer and closer to my face that I can feel the air whipping by while beads of sweat fling from her face. It is hypnotic to watch and I hold my breath so long at times I have to gasp for oxygen when the stanza comes to an abrupt stop.
This was my first experience of Flamenco when I hitched a ride from to Granada, Spain with a brother and sister pair I met the night before at a bar in Lagos, Portugal. Afterwards, I bought a classical guitar and learned to play pieces like Asturias (Leyenda) and Romanza Española. Since then, I’ve always associated Andalusia with the music and I relish the chance to catch a show whenever I visit – and Seville is one of the best places in the world to experience Flamenco.
A Brief History Of Flamenco
Flamenco’s origins can be traced back hundreds of years with to the Andalusian region in the South of Spain. Though its exact beginnings are argued and debated, there is no doubt that the music and art form comes from mix of people that inhabited Andalucía, including the Jews, Romani gypsies, and the Moors from North Africa. By the 18th century, flamenco began to flourish and evolve into its current form. However, it was still limited to family celebrations and one-off performances
Sevilla, with its deep gitano population, became a hotspot for this burgeoning art form. By the 19th century, cafés cantantes (“singing cafes”) popped up across the city, making it a flamenco epicenter. The historic Triana district of Sevilla, once a major Romani neighborhood, is particularly famed for producing many legendary flamenco artists. Even today, Triana remains a pilgrimage site for flamenco aficionados looking.
Today, Flamenco can be found in many places around the city. From street performers to tablaos, there’s an opportunity for visitors to catch an authentic performance every day of the week.
Read my 72 HOUR GUIDE TO SEVILLE if you’re planning your first trip to this Andalusian gem.
Where To See The Best Flamenco Shows In Seville
- Flamenco Tablaos
- Flamenco Theater
- Flamenco Bars
- Pena Flamenco
- Flamenco Street Performers
Flamenco Tablaos
Tablaos are dedicated spaces for Flamenco performances where you’ll find a proper wooden stage designed to deliver the cleanest sounds to hear the dynamic and intricate footwork of the dancers. Dancers and singers will wear colorful and traditional dresses and costumes, sometimes changing between sets. They are usually small to medium sized venues allowing for between 20-70 guests at a time.
They are the modern equivalent of the singing cafes, and to be fair, they are designed for tourists. But this isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Let me explain.
First, the performances are real. The skills are real. Performers practice and aspire to be hired by the tablaos that showcase their talents to the world that has come to Seville.
Tablaos are plentiful in Seville, especially around the center. There are multiple performances a day every day of the week. This convenience makes tablaos one of the best options for visitors to Seville. I recommend La Cantaora (location on map) for its intimate venue, especially if you arrive earlier for one of the tables in the front. You can’t get any closer than this and it’s incredible to see the footwork from up close.
Flamenco Theater
A Flamenco Theater elevates the experience to a full production. Where tablaos are smaller, intimate spaces, a theater’s larger stage allows for a bigger cast where multiple dancers can move freely across a larger space. Theatrical lighting add drama and flair and allow the production to use light, shadow and sound to add a different dimension to the experience.
We stayed at La Casa del Lagar 10 on the edge of the Centro and Alfalfa district.
I was blown away by the show at Teatro Flamenco Sevilla (location on map) and it might have been my favorite performance during my week of shows. And it was just a short walk away from our awesome apartment at La Casa del Lagar 10.
If you have the time, I suggest experiencing both a tablao and the theater show. Photography and filming is allowed during the show, but the use of flash is prohibited.
However, my favorite venue was at Museo del Baile Flamenco (location on map). The museum has three nightly shows that takes place in an intimate indoor courtyard under the open air. Look up and you’ll see floating chairs and a Sevillian Orange tree. Photography and filming is not allowed during the show, which keeps you immersed and engaged. Something to keep in mind.
Flamenco Bars
For a more low key experience, you can head to a Flamenco bar like Lo Nuestro (location on map) or Taberna La Quad de Triana (location on map). Local performers come here to sing and dance and on the weekends, it can continue late into the night. There’s no set time, but the performances usually start pretty after 10 or 11 pm, so get there a bit earlier for a drink and some tapas and stay for the magic. There’s no entrance fees, but food and drink prices might be higher than other places.
Since there are so many performances for tourists, smaller Flamenco bars don’t often get much promotion. Perhaps for the best. Ask around when you’re there. Go with the flow and do as the locals do when you’re here.
Flamenco Pena
You can make an argument that an event at a Flamenco Peñas is the most authentic way to experience Flamenco. These are local “club” gatherings for artists and aficionados to explore the art form. There’s a membership where the fees are used for performances, workshops, lectures, and exhibitions. While it’s open to visitors and tourists, the events are not put on for them.
As such, there may or may not be something going on while you’re there. Peñas vary in sizes, will most likely be in Spanish, and rarely charge an entrance fee. Places like Peña Flamenca Torres Macarena (location on map) has a weekly gathering every Thursday at 8 pm that’s open to the public. They also have ticketed shows, but you’ll need to show up at the door to buy a ticket.
Whatever you end up doing, buy a drink, find a seat if you can, and be grateful for your fortunate timing.
Flamenco Street Performers
If you’re around the center or old town, there’s a chance you’ll see street performers putting on an impromptu performance. Most are busking for money, but sometimes you might find a guitarist or two just playing for fun.
I recommend checking out Plaza de Espana, especially around sunset.
Whatever you end up choosing, there’s no wrong way to experience Flamenco. For me, if you want to experience late night drinking and entertainment, find a Flamenco bar. If you want a great production, check out the Teatro Flamenco, and if you want to be as close to the performers as you can, check out a small tablao.
Check out my 72 HOUR GUIDE TO SEVILLE and my Foodie Guide To Seville if you’re planning your first trip.
Looking for more travel inspirations? Scroll through some of the 450+ experiences on my bucket list. Maybe you’ll find your next adventure on there.
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Updated on November 2, 2024